Shoe and process of making the same



J. F. TEEHAN.

SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED APR.12.1920.V

'19593;230, mm@ im. n, 1921.

2 SHEETSSHEET l.

J. F. TEEHAN.

SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION EILED APR. i2, 1920* 1,393,730. laten'a Osa M9 1% L 2SHEETS#SHEET Z.

qu., l

SHQE ANI) :FH/SCEES F MAKNG THE Application ileil April 3.2, 1929.

To all yzii/ifm?, may @0n/:ern: o

Be it known ehal; l, JoHN Tnnrran, a citizen of l@he ilnilefl States,reeiiling ai. Brei-.krom in the county of Plymouth and State of'Massachusetts, here invented new and useful improvements in Shoes andProcesses of lllalring the Sammel' which elle following is aspecification.

The object of the'present invention is to produce a flexible andconifere-able shoe and also an improve-Ll innereole for use therein. asWell the method or inanufaeruring the same.

ln accordance willi the )prosegui invention, the innersole is formedwith a continuous ril) or lip erlenrling from the heel end, on one eideen'irely around the forepart or 'ehe shoe to izhe hee end on lle otherside, to which a continuous or uninterrupted well', may be nrt shed inelle ueuel wells-sewing or inse-ain operation, the innersoie itselfbeing split so as to provide two layers er members at the shank el lsheShoe, as a result of which the shoe 'is highly erihle al; the shank. lnpreparing fhe' innersole, which is made of leather or an equivnleni'na'terial, l preferably ,first form and turn Athe rib or lip which'follows the contour of the sole around the shank and forepart, andthen, by a suie-able instrumenelity., the sole is Split, preferably inplane al; the base of the rihheo hat, While the innersole is illusformed into two layers, the rib on the upper layer is integrfri with ande continuation of the rilJ on the unsplit portion o1"- the innersole. Avery decided advantage ie secured by this pro-- cedure, when the weltand upper are Sewell to lille innersole, Since the rentranl; :ingle oreornerformecl by the rib and the upper face or' the solo, which isengaged by the guide or' lie welle-sewing machine, is oontinuous,uninterrupted and unobstructed, and the Shoe can he fed smoothly inrela'ion to Sewing mechanism in forming the inn seam 'from heel to heelof the shoe. The innersole may he split 'from either end, so as to formthe wo inlegrally connected. 121.3@ ers ai; the shank, between the heelandthe i'oreparc of the Sole, but for usual purposes it is preferable tosplit the innersole from ithe heel end. ylfhe two layers of the inner'Sole are preferably permanently connes ed lgogether at the heel enel ofl@he shoe when fthe 'shoe is finished. This may he accomplished bySecuring the heel ends of lie layn Specification of Leters Patent.

Farfenleil (let. il, i921..

Serai No. 373,073.

ers together by suiahle faetening means 'oe fore the innereole issecured to the upper and the welt by 'die inseaining operaion, or, ifdesired, the Saul ende may he Secured together by the tacks and. theheel nails in Sen-.urineT the upper and heel to the shoe al; he heelciul thereof.

Obviously the entire under Jface of the i11- nereole may be reinforcedwith a layer olf eitile material from loe to heel7 llie margin of whichis upluu'ned in the channeling operation to form a part olf therip-turned rib or lip. This is sometimes desirable Where the innersoloie formed of relatively soft or spongy leather or of leaherboard.

When the shoe is completely formeel, the shank of the innersole consistsof two seperate layers or members integrally connected. at one or bolliende, but capable of separan tion in the act of flexing the Shoe, eothee the shoe itself ie very flexible at the shank, the upper layercurving; upwardly between ies ends and hearingagainst the arch of theloot. Since ther iea relative mmemeni of the uwe layers or members o lleinnereole, when the Vweffwer of the shoe is in the act of Walking, endconsequently there may be a tendency el' the shoe to squeak, suoliequeaking may he obvia'erl by placing a layer of fibrous or otherSuitable material between the shank members. lzfor a piece of thincanvas or oher cloth may oe oonneeerl *ro ne inner :face of one of liemembers.

Figure l shows a channeled innersole with the lip er rib turned.

Figs. 2 and 3 represent sections through rhe Same on. he lines-2--2 and3-3, of Fig. l'. l

Fig. l is a plan View! of lie innersole ee. split from the heel end.

Fig. 5 represents section on the line 5--5 of Fig'.

Fig., G ropreeen'e a longieulinal Seeion t'lxrough the inner-sole aiferthe inner fece of the rib-carrying Shank member has been covered Wih afabric layer.

Fig. 7 represente a section on the line 7e-7 of Fig. 6.

lil@

u II Fig. 8 represente a partially termed shoe,

Hill

L ii-ii or. Fig. 9.

ln preparing the innersole, indicated as a Whole at 20, l use somesuitable stoclr such as leather, leather-board, or their equivalent,

which is capable of'being split, and may, if

desired, cover the upper tace thereofyvith a sheet 2l of fabric cementedin place. lior this purpose, a Lfrictioned7 fabric may be employed.Then, by a channeling; machine of suitable. design, a channel 23 isformed in the side edge ot the sole, and a lip or rib 22 is upturned,:from the 'point a at the heel end entirely around the shank andtorepart to the point b at the heel end, as shown in Fig'. 2. '.1'

Then, by `a splitting machine, e. y. one having a band lrni'lfe, theinnersole is split from the extremity of the heel end, through theshanlcto a transverse line c-c substanl tially coinciding with the breakof the shoe, or slightly, beyond what might be termed the toe end oitthe shank. This operation divides the heel and shank portion oi theinnersolc into tvfo members 25, 26, which are integrally connected attheir ttoru l Ward ends, the plane ot' division being co incident Withthe plane oi the face ot' the leather- 2-1: or at the base ot the' ribor lip. As a result,the rib or lip 22 is stormed par tially on theunsplit torepart and partially on the shank member 26, and constitutes,

it were, the upturned marginal edge oit the said shank member.

lf desired, the member 26 may be folded over the forepart of theinnersole, and the inner face of the memberv 25- at the shank coveredwith a suitable material to prevent squeakingv when the members 25 and26 are moved in Jrictional engagement. 27 of frictioned fabric may beemployed, or any other suitable substance such as celluloid, sodiumsilicate or the like may be used.

1When the upper and the welt 29are inseamed to the rib or lip 22as shownin Figs. 10 and 1i, the Welt extends uninterruptedly from the heel onone side or" the innersole, around the shank and forepart to the heel onthe other side. a cross section taken at the" inside of the shank, thewelt and the upper are stitched to the rib or lip 22 on the 'shankmember 26,

leavinoa the other shank member 25 unat- -any event, however, when theupper is lasted over the Jlace of the innersole at the heel end and isSecured-in place by tacks or other A piece ln Fig. 11, which Showsfastenings 30, the heel ends of the shank members are permanentlysecured together. And, innailing on the heel, the heel-attaching` nailsmay be caused to penetrate the two members 25 and 26. But I should notregard it as a departure from the invention it. the heel end oi themember 25 were left loose and unattached. l l

lWhen the shoe is linished and is flexed by the foot of the wearer, inthe act of Walking, as shown-in Fig. 9,*the member 25 bends upwardlybetween its ends and .separates from the member 26, thereby renderingthe shoe very much.- more flexible at the shank than would be the case.were the innersole solid and unsplit at the shank.

By reason o'tf the construction herein dev scribed, rind that theshearing action on the stitches at the juncture of the shank andforepart is materially reduced.

As already stated, in performing' the'welb ing or inseam operation, theguide extends into the corner or angle formed by the lip and the face ofthe innersole, and this corner extends without obstruction to the guide,from one end to the other, from heel to heel around the shank landorepart.

While l have described thev process as consistingl` of certa-in steps inSequence, it Will be apparentthat the splitting operation een follow thecl'iauneling operation and precede' the turning: of the lip, thisdepending on the will ot the operator. ln fact, the sequence ot' stepsmay be otherwise altered, if desired, and the splitting' operation mayprecede the channeling; and lip-turning operations. In any such case, itis desirable for some purposes that the channeling knifev and the'splitting' knife shall operate in the same plane. though this is notessential, vfor other purposes.

Having;f thus explained the nature of my said invention and described aWay of constructing and usingr the same, although without attempting toset forth all ot the forms in which it may be made or ,all of the modesof its use, what l claim is :A

l. A welt shoe having an innersole provided with a continuous ribextending around the shank and the forepart from heel to heel, and anupper and a. Welt stitched to said rib, said innersole being,l split atthe shank to provide two relatively movable integrally connectedlayersfor members.

2. A welt shoe comprising an innersole. having a rib extending aroundthe shank and forepart from heel to heel, and an up per and a Weltstitched to said rilJ from end to end thereof, said innersole beingsplit at its shank into two integrally connected `me`mbers, the plane ofdivisionbeing ap proximately coincident with the plane/of thejuncture/of the rib and the feather .of

the insole. i

3. As a new article of manufacture, an in-a

